They’re not much to look at. If you’ve walked through the woods in late April or early May you probably tramped right past them while your eyes were drawn to the beauty of the spring-blooming trilliums, marsh marigolds, bloodroot, hepatica and anemone. But if you’re looking for food in the woods in spring, wild leeks are what you should be looking for.
The reason they won’t immediately catch your eye is that they don’t bloom in spring. Their bloom season is summer, well after prime harvesting time. No, in spring you need to look for two or three broad, smooth bright green leaves growing directly from the ground. You might see a very short maroon stem on each leaf and below that, underground, is the treasure – the bulb. This is important: both the leaves and the bulb have a strong onion-like odor. There are other plants whose leaves look a lot like leeks that are extremely poisonous. The poisonous plants do not have an oniony odor. So – no onion smell – do not eat!
Spring is the best time to harvest wild leeks but they can be harvested any time of year. Later in the summer they’ll have a bolder, more robust flavor. In summer, the plant will be identified by a typical onion-type white flower (see photos) atop a smooth maroon stalk. Again – make sure the plant smells like onions before you eat it. All parts of the wild leek plant are edible including the leaves, the stem, the flower and the bulb.
Wild leeks, also called ramps, have the Latin name Allium tricoccum. They were a favorite plant of Native Americans after a long winter diet of dried fruits, nuts, and dried meats. Wild leeks were used by Native Americans as a blood cleansing spring tonic, in decoctions to treat coughs and colds, and they made a poultice of the juice of strong summer bulbs to relieve the pain and itch of bee stings. Today we know that wild leeks are high in vitamins A and C and are full of beneficial minerals. In addition, they help to reduce cholesterol just like other members of the onion/garlic family.
Here’s something Wisconsinites will get a kick out of. The Menominee Indian word for wild leeks is pikwute sikakushia (skunk plant). They referred to the area near the southern shore of Lake Michigan where wild leeks grew abundantly as CicagaWuni or Shikako (skunk place). Can you see where this is going? The term was later applied to a white settlement known as Chicago, and their future football team . . . oh wait I got a bit off track there.
To harvest wild leeks, look for bright green leaves about six inches long and two inches wide. Avoid plants with yellowed or withering leaves. Since they usually grow in moist, loose soil, you may be able to pull them right from the ground, but if they need a little help, a trowel or small shovel will easily lift them. Never harvest leeks or any wild food if there are just a few plants. And always leave at least a third of the patch in place so the plant can survive to feed you or someone else the next year.
Just like onions, you will find a papery wrap around the bulbs that should be removed. Trim off the roots and discard any yellowing or slimy parts. A good rinse and they are ready to use.
If you aren’t going to eat or cook with them right away, store the bulbs in the refrigerator in a plastic bag. They can be frozen in plastic bags or vacuum sealed bags. They can also be canned or roasted until dry. It’s best to use the leaves immediately as they don’t store well.
Wild leeks can be used in any recipe that calls for scallions or green onions. They can be diced or sautéed and added to eggs or fried potatoes, used in stir fry and salads, in sandwiches, soups or stews, or stuffed inside a trout on the grill. Their flavor is somewhat stronger than garden-grown leeks, so use them sparingly.
Wild Leek Gratin
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
½ cup fresh bread crumbs
½ cup grated Gruyere cheese
¾ pound wild leeks, cleans and trimmed
salt and freshly ground white pepper
½ cup heavy cream
Melt the butter in an ovenproof skillet. Add the bread crumbs, tossing and toasting over high heat, stirring occasionally to prevent the butter from burning. Toast about two minutes, or until the bread is a light golden color. Transfer toasted bread crumbs to a plate. Don’t clean the skillet. When cooled, toss the bread crumbs with the Gruyere.
Turn on your broiler. Melt the remaining butter in the skillet until it just begins to brown. Add the leeks, facing them all in the same direction. Cook them over high heat, turning occasionally, until they are limp and a light golden color. Season with salt and pepper, add the cream, and bring to a simmer. This should take only about one minute. Remove the leeks from the heat. Sprinkle the breadcrumb mixture over the top of the leeks in the skillet. Set the skillet under the hot broiler for about 30 seconds, or until they are bubbling and brown. Serve immediately.
Potato and Wild Leek Soup
4-6 slices bacon
4 cups chopped wild leeks (including green)
4 to 5 cups diced red potatoes
3 tablespoons flour
4 cups chicken broth
1 cup heavy cream
salt and pepper, to taste
In a large skillet or Dutch oven, fry bacon until crisp; set bacon aside. Add leeks and potatoes to the skillet; fry on medium-low heat until leeks are tender. Sprinkle with flour; stir until flour is absorbed. Stir in chicken broth; simmer until potatoes are tender. Stir in the cream and bacon and heat thoroughly. Add salt and pepper to taste.
Serves 4 to 6
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