Unless your landscape is very informal, it will look better with definite and neat edges between the lawn and the plantings. There are several ways to do this and they vary in cost, effectiveness and ease of installation.
In our area of the country, the edgings that work the best are cut edges, dry-laid brick or stone, and wood or timber. Anything made of plastic or rubber that is inserted into the ground will most likely frost heave in winter or twist and break easily.
The easiest time to install an edging is after the soil is prepared but before the bed is planted. In an established bed, the best time is in spring before things start growing. Edging an established, growing bed is more difficult but it certainly can be done.
A no-cost option for straight or curved edges on level or sloped sites is a cut edge. To make a cut edge, lay a hose or rope on the ground to mark where you want the bed edges. Cut along the line with a sharp spade or edging tool. Lift away any grass or plants that grow into the cut. Make a shallow trench on the bed side of the cut. Keep the trench empty – don’t let it fill up with mulch. You will have to re-cut the edge at least twice a year – probably each spring and late summer.
A brick or stone mowing strip makes a neat edge for straight or curved areas on level or gently sloped sites. Dig a trench about 8 inches wide and 4 inches deep around the edge of the bed. Measure the length of the trench and divide it by the length of the bricks to determine how many bricks to buy. Fill the trench halfway with sand or gravel screenings and lay bricks on top, setting them level with the soil on the lawn side. Sweep extra sand or screenings between the bricks. The tire of your lawn mower rides along the bricks, eliminating the need for separate trimming. Some grass or plants may grow under, between or over the bricks but it is easy to pop one up to get at the weeds.
For straight edged beds on level sites, wood or timber edging works well. Landscape timbers make for a formal look, while tree trunks or limbs set a more rustic appearance. Sink the wood partially into the soft soil of the bed so it doesn’t roll or tip sideways. There is no need to nail the ends, just butt the ends of the timbers together. Wood edgings are subject to frost heave but can easily be pushed back into place. Natural wood will decay after several years and need to be replaced. Pressure treated timbers last for decades but should not be used near food crops or herb gardens where you might use the herbs for food or cosmetic use.
Other edging possibilities are decorative stone and brick, and iron, wire or vinyl fencing.
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